Friday, November 19, 2010

Houay Xai (Laos) transit.

The Mekong river boat waiting for passengers.It was a cool morning by the river and it's still early for them to get enough customers. After clearing the Thai Immigration proceeded to catch a boat for our river crossing.Paid 40 baht at a small ticketing booth and was issued a receipt. A Thai girl being the first and only passenger before us.This boat I think fit for 8 to 10 people and if you have a big backpack should be less than that. This is Stefan,my new found travel buddy whom I met and shared the room in the late night arrival at Chiang Khong. He's a young University of Berlin grads from Germany majoring in Mechanical Engineering. As for me,no need visa for entering Laos but Stefan has to apply an on arrival visa and a tout help him through the immigration formality. This is Houay Xai's main entrance point from across the Mekong River from Chiang Khong.The Lao Immigration is at the far end left beside the river.They are very courteous in their duty. Those people hanging around here are in fact minivan,tuk tuk drivers waiting to offer their services to incoming passengers. This side road is less than 300 metres from the main road. Standing on the platfrom at the Lao Immigration checkpoint,managed to catch a glimpse of the mighty Mekong River with a small island on it. I have 10 more days to cover Northern Laos before I leave through Vientianne. My plan today is to reach Luang Nam Tha and spend a night there. I think Muang Sing and Boten both near China's border has to be ommited due to lack of time. Oudomxai,Phongsali,Luang Prabang,Vang Vieng and Vientiane will be my coverage. Stefan is also going to Luang Nam Tha for his eco-tourism plans so we are together in this quite spacious van.Cost:300 baht per person. Altogether there are 9 foreigners. We met Ester this morning who will be taking a slow boat ride with an overnight stopover at Pak Beng on the way to Luang Prabang. Slowboat from Houay Say to Pak Beng cost 130,000 kips. The main street of Huay Xai looks quite similar to Chiang Khong and that's where all the tour agencies,guesthouses,banks,restaurants are located. I change my baht to kips from a tour agency .(10 baht =2,500 lao kips) If you care to turn right and walk further up as you exited from the immigration,say another 300 metres is a commercial bank with ATM machine. The rates here: kips - baht (2698/2670) Friendship Guesthouse. Friendship lives up to its name with friendly, efficient service. The small but neat rooms have slightly dank bathrooms but windows, wooden floors and a nice rooftop view compensate. Telephone: 084 211 219 Houay Xai Guesthouse. I think Lao people prefer to call it Houay Say. Just like Vientianne,they'll say ViengChan. After stamping your passport as you walk out to the main road,your first view is the staircase leading to a temple. Other places to sleep in Hoay Xai: 1) BAP Guest House Turn left coming from the pier, and BAP is 50m up on the left. All rooms come with fan and hot-water shower. This friendly two-storey place is a good spot to find out about boats going to Luang Nam Tha via Pak Tha or Xieng Kok. There's also a good restaurant downstairs. Telephone: 084 211 083 2) Chaleunshine Guest House Its short distance from town puts this lovely guesthouse in a more authentic bâan location. Rooms are breezy and bright, with spotless tiled floors and hot-water showers in the bathrooms. Telephone: 084 212 076 3) Keoudomphone Hotel The nicest hotel in town is a 15-minute walk from the main strip but it's well worth the effort for the spick, span and spacious rooms. Each has a TV, small couches and plenty of charm and sunlight. Pricier rooms have air-con. This property has been reviewed and recommended by a New Road author. However it is not bookable online either with New Road or with a recommended hotel booking provider. In order to book this property please contact them directly. Telephone: 084 211 405 3) Mekong Lao Hotel Opposite the Keoudomphone, this hotel has a promising exterior and although the rooms are large and comfy, they're pretty musty. They all have air-con and TVs though and are decent for the price. Telephone: 084 211 277 4) Oudomphone Guest House This guesthouse is a spotless option with fan-cooled rooms, clean sheets and surfaces and friendly owners. It's slightly tucked off the main street and good for a quiet night's sleep. There's a small café out the front serving good breakfasts. off Thanon Saykhong 5) Sabaydee Guest House A good cut above the cheaper options in town, this immaculate guesthouse has pristine rooms with firm beds, large windows and commodious hot-water bathrooms. It's efficiently run and recommended. Thanon Saykhong ,Telephone: 084 211 751 6) Thanormsub Guest House One of the best deals in town, this single-story guesthouse has fresh rooms with ceiling fans and hot-water showers attached. It's low-key, immaculate and extremely friendly. Thanon Saykhong ,Telephone: 084 211 095 7) Thaveesinh Hotel This grand pink structure contains an assortment of rooms ranging from cosy, fan-cooled versions to capacious suites with air-con. All have TV, hot water and garish bedspreads. It's not as clean as some of the guesthouses but you're paying for the amenities. Thanon Saykhong ,Telephone: 084 312 039 Places to eat1) Latsuly Restaurant Right next to the slow boat landing, this spot overlooking the Mekong serves an assortment of fried noodle and rice dishes, buffalo steaks, and a good basil pork. They can also whip up sandwiches for you to take on the boats 2) Muang Neur There's plenty of fragrant Lao cuisine to be had at this humble little restaurant, like whole crisp fried fish stuffed with ginger and garlic, spicy seafood soup with lemongrass, and delicious fǒe . It also advertises itself as the Gecko Bar for those in need of lào-láo . 3) Nut Pop Tel: (084) 211 037 (info) On an atmospheric timber deck surrounded by foliage, this restaurant serves great Lao dishes like peppery hot pork, baked fish or chicken with chilli and lime. 4) Riverside Houay Restaurant Address: off Thanon Saykhong The only thing broader than the Mekong view at this restaurant is the menu. A huge array of Thai and Lao is on offer with some good seafood dishes including fried prawn cakes. The tom yams and curries come in all manner of meats, or you can just tuck into an omelette. It has a particularly ambient setting, although the cheesy Thai pop music detracts a little from it. Shopping: Lao Red Cross Thanon Saykhong , Tel: (084) 211 264 (info) You can take a traditional herbal sauna and/or Swedish-Lao massage at the Lao Red Cross . Talat Sao Thanon Saykhong Huay Xai's main morning market, Talat Sao attracts traders from numerous ethnic backgrounds and is situated at the southern end of town near the bus terminal.